Visiting the Mine Bay Māori Rock Carvings in Taupō
The Ngātoroirangi Mine Bay Māori Rock Carvings are an iconic attraction in New Zealand. Etched into a rock face and towering 14m above the aquamarine waters of Lake Taupo, these modern-day Māori carvings can only be viewed from the water – adding to their intrigue.
Crafted, somewhat controversially, in the late 1970s by Matahi Brightwell, in the likeness of his ancestor Ngātoroirangi, the carvings are an incredible display of the artist’s talent and determination. And everyone who makes the journey to view them gets to share in a sense of awe.
I’ve included the Mine Bay Māori Rock carvings in my list of must-sees on a visit to New Zealand – for the cultural significance, the remarkable beauty of the area, and the enjoyment of exploration. So read on to find out how to make this journey yourself!
History of the Mine Bay Māori Rock Carvings
Before visiting the carvings for myself, I hadn’t given too much thought to how old they might be. I’d just assumed they were as ancient as the history of the Māori people in Aotearoa. So when our tour guide explained that they were carved in modern history, I wasn’t the only one with a surprised look on my face.
She explained that Matahi’s grandmother, a descendant of Ngatoroirangi, asked the young carver (he was only in his 20s at the time) to create a carving in the likeness of her ancestor. Initially proposing it be done on a Totara tree, the carver looked elsewhere when it was apparent no Totara trees were present in the surroundings. He eventually settled on the rock face we see today.
The carving, which he completed with the help of four other artists, was created over the span of 4 years.
Who is Ngatoroirangi?
Ngatoroirangi was one of the early explorers who arrived on the Te Arawa Canoe. He settled in Taupo, and his descendants are now known as the Ngati Tuwharetoa tribe. You can read the story of Ngatoroirangi Toa Matarau here.
Controversy Surrounding the Carvings
When Matahi started his work, he hadn’t sought any permits or permissions, and the town saw it as graffiti. He explains that he left the eyes blank as he didn’t want his ancestor to witness the abuse and threats he experienced while undertaking the carving.
This attitude has thankfully changed with time, and Matahi is now revered as one of New Zealand’s most skilled master carvers.
How to See the Mine Bay Maori Rock Carvings
The rock carvings aren’t accessible by land. So unless you have your own boat, you’ll need a little help to see them for yourself. Luckily, as the popularity of the carvings has increased, so too has the number of tour options. I’ll go over these below, including the reasons I chose this tour (with no regrets).
Scenic Boat Cruises
Boat cruises are a popular choice for those who want a relaxing day out on the water. All of the below options will take you to the carvings, and some will include swimming stops, fishing demonstrations, or food & drink. You can choose tours that depart at various times throughout the day, including sunset tours – and Taupo has spectacular sunsets over the lake.
Taupo Sailing Adventures offer 2.5 hour cruises four times a day on a sailing catamaran or a sailboat. The morning cruise is the cheapest option, and the sunset cruise is a little more expensive, but includes pizza and a drink. The tour stops for a swim break just around the corner from the carvings. This is the operator I chose, and you can read more about why I went with them, and my experience below.
Sail Barbary – Eco Sailing Taupo also offer 2.5hr sailing cruises of Lake Taupo, three times a day. It’s a similar offering to Taupo Sailing Adventures, with a swim stop after the rock carving viewing.
Chris Jolly offers a 1.5hr cruise in a two-story catamaran. They include a fishing demonstration as part of the tour. Because of the design of the boat, this tour may be a good option if you’re expecting rain or cooler temperatures as there is plenty of space indoors.
Kayak Tours
If you prefer a more immersive experience, perhaps a kayak tour is the way to go. You do have to commit a bit more time & effort for this type of tour, and it’s not suitable for kids (12 & up generally ok), but it can be a hugely rewarding experience.
Canoe & Kayak offer a half-day kayak tour to the rock carvings that includes a swim (and cliff diving if you dare) break along the way. It’s a guided tour, and you’ll hear about local attractions and Maori legends along the way.
Taupo Kayaking Adventures operates from the popular Acacia Bay which gives you a head start to the carvings. They also offer motorized kayaks for those with disabilities. Tours depart twice a day and include a swim and muffin break at Whakamoenga Point.
Paddleboarding
There aren’t currently any organised paddleboarding tours to the rock carvings. But that doesn’t mean it can’t be done! You can hire a paddleboard from Canoe & Kayak, or Taupo Kayaking Adventures and set off on a self-navigated trip around the bay.
I’d recommend launching from Whakamoenga Point on the Rangatira Point Walking Track. Or the tiny boat jetty that’s about halfway through the walk. From here it’s an easy paddle around the headland to the carvings.
Related Reading: Best Things to do in Taupo!
My Experience With Taupo Sailing Adventures
When choosing a tour to the Mine Bay Maori Rock Carvings, I was looking primarily for three things; a small group tour, a swimming break, and a vessel where I could sit outside comfortably to soak in the sights.
I quickly settled on Taupo Sailing Adventures, and specifically the tour on their 53ft sailing catamaran. I’d taken a boat cruise in Milos on the same kind of vessel – so I knew this set-up was the right one for being able to sit out and relax on the deck. They even offer beanbags to make it more comfortable! A welcome bonus is that it’s an eco-friendly option; both in terms of the boat, and in practice – I didn’t see a single disposable cup or utensil offered!
My second choice would have been their sailing boat tours. But it didn’t look like it’d offer the same level of comfort and space.
Tip – you’ll save a few dollars by booking through Get Your Guide, and if you’re a regular user of the app, you’ll know how nice it is to have all your booking QR codes, locations (they have a handy map feature for the meeting points), and updates in one place.
I opted for the morning cruise, and it was perfect. Despite being “fully booked” at about 26 guests, everyone had space to move around and sprawl out at the front of the catamaran.
On the way out we sailed past Acacia Bay, where we were told how the bay got its name. And then around the bay to the rock carvings. Tea & coffee were offered, and a biscuit.
Tip – the early morning (9.30am) tour is the cheapest tour of the day. The midday and afternoon tours are $10 more but include a free drink. The sunset tour is a little more expensive again, but includes a 1/2 pizza and drink per person. You’re also allowed to bring your own refreshments onboard.
It was a stunning summer day when I did this tour. And Waitangi Day – which is a national public holiday. So I expected there to be many boats loitering around the carvings. But to my surprise, there was only one other vessel in the area at the time.
This is when we paused for a few moments to learn the history of the carvings, and have some of the smaller, less obvious carvings pointed out to us. There are actually quite a few hidden in the rocks that you may not notice when your eyes are glued to the main attraction!
After we’d all had ample time to photograph the carvings, we sailed just around the corner where a serene bay awaited. This is where we dropped anchor, and those of us who wanted to jumped in for a swim.
The water at this time of year is around 20 degrees so it was perfectly swimmable, calm, and remarkably clean!
After around 20 minutes it was time to dry off, pull the sail up, and cruise back to the harbour. Which, I learned on the way, is the start of the Waikato River! Despite having lived in Hamilton for many years in the past, I’d never known this tidbit before.
Planning Your Visit
There are a few last things you’ll want to consider when planning your trip to the Mine Bay Maori rock carvings. Timing, booking tickets, and how to get there; to name a few.
Best Times to Visit
Summer makes an obvious choice to visit Taupo and the rock carvings, to maximise your chances of sunny, warm weather (though do bear in mind New Zealand weather is notoriously unpredictable and changeable). Early autumn/fall can be a good choice too.
Tours run year-round though, and if you choose to visit Taupo at another time of the year, you can certainly enjoy calm and clear days at any time of the year. The water may just give you a bit more of a shock if you dare to jump in!
As for the best time of day to see the carvings – I had researched this before taking the tour, and couldn’t find a conclusive answer. By looking at the map, and expected sun trajectory, I could assume late afternoon onwards would most likely be the best time to photograph the rock carvings as that’s when the area should be illuminated.
Unfortunately, the late afternoon tour and sunset tours were booked out (I’d recommend not leaving your booking to the day before!). So I opted for the morning tour to avoid the harsh overhead light and potential shadows of the midday slot. And I had zero regrets about starting the day this way – out on the water in the still morning.
You can check availability here:
Where to Stay in Taupo
I was lucky enough to avail of a Home Exchange during this stay in Taupo. But previously I’ve visited Taupo numerous times and stayed in various accommodations around the area – including the beautiful boutique lodge where we got married many years ago!
Bellevue Boutique Lodge (formerly known as West Wellow) is where we held our wedding celebrations, and we stayed in the sumptuous rooms before & after too. If you’re looking for a unique place to stay in Taupo, with a truly boutique feel, this is the place for you. It also boasts lovely lake views and is located in the ever-popular Acacia Bay.
I haven’t stayed at The Retreat but I was eyeing it up from the water as we sailed out of the harbour, and thinking it was such a beautiful setting. I didn’t realise it was a hotel at all, until I was researching for this article! The eight apartments are set on the banks of the lake, among sumptuous gardens and with spectacular views. Each two-bedroom apartment can sleep 5 guests, making it a great choice for families or those travelling with friends.
Taupo Debretts Spa Resort is an old favourite, especially when travelling with kids. There’s a range of accommodations available, ranging from tent sites to self-contained villas. And all guests can take advantage of discounted rates for the Taupo Hot Springs Thermal pools right next door.
Visiting the Mine Bay Maori Rock Carvings is more than just a lovely day out on the water, it’s an insight into New Zealand’s cultural heritage. As you come face to face with the towering face of Ngatoroirangi, you can’t help but be reminded of the deep connection between the Maori people and their land. Whether you arrive by boat, kayak or paddleboard, the experience is both humbling and awe-inspiring.
Beyond their artistic appeal, these carvings tell a story of tradition, resilience, and preservation. So, if you find yourself in the heart of Aotearoa, don’t miss the chance to witness this incredible fusion of nature and culture. It’s a memory that will stay with you long after you’ve left the shores of Lake Taupo.
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